Mexico, summer 2025

 

July 30, 2025 – Departure!

Several months ago, Ruben Rubio, my longtime friend and vineyard manager, invited me to join him and his family for a trip to his home in Mexico.  He is throwing a party to celebrate his mother’s 73rd birthday.  Today, they picked me up at 7:00 pm.  Ruben, Sonia, their son, Ethan (now 17) picked me up, along with brother, Jose, who is taking us to the Sacramento airport.  We met up with their daughter, Cynthia, her husband, Manuel, and his adorable 9-year-old, Tony.  We checked in and awaited our flight, which took off just after midnight.

 

July 31, 2025 – Arrival Guadalajara

We arrived at the Guadalajara airport, and easily went through the passport station.  Then, it was chaotic, as at least three flights seemed to be arriving at the same time, now 5:30 in the morning.  But we found all our bags.  At first, there seemed no rhyme or reason to the line for customs, but we were guided to the end of a line that snaked throughout the entire airport.  It moved quickly and we passed through with none of our party needing to go through the random search.  We had a Starbucks and passed a few minutes as we waited for another brother, Salvador, to arrive.  He bundled all of us into his big SUV and we had a nice drive through many towns and lots of farm land.  The two primary crops seem to be corn and Agave, for Tequilla.  These fascinating plants are grown in straight rows, for about 8 years.  They are very large, with tall, upright, blueish leaves with pointy tips.   When harvested, they pull out the entire plant, because the part utilized is not the long spiky leaf, but the heart.

 

As we approached Ruben’s town, El Sauz de Magana munisipio de Zamora Michoacan Mexico “El Sauz”, the primary crop becomes berries.  Blackberries, blueberries, raspberries and strawberries abound.  Most are covered with either a plastic or shade-cloth dome.

 

We stopped in Zamora, the nearby big city, at a restaurant that specializes in beef dishes, El Ranchito.  I enjoyed a delicious soup “Caldo” with a rich, red broth and various cuts of beef.  I also had a taco of the same.

 

We arrived at Ruben’s home, a complex of homes actually.  He bought the property from his grandfather around 20 years ago.  He built a home for his family, who normally visits twice a year.  Also, his mother, Margarita, has a home, where she lives year-round.  His brother Miguel, who works with us in Napa Valley, has a home, occupied by his wife, Mayra, and 10-year old daughter, Valentina.  Adjacent, in the same compound, lives Salvador and his wife, Senaida, who also operate a small store, selling mostly snacks.  I got a little tour of all.  Adjacent to Margarita is her sister, Estella.  I have my own little house, up at the front, by Ruben’s.  This house is brand new.  All are surrounded by a lovely wrought iron fence, majestic cypress and plants of every sort.

 

Once settled, Ruben, Manuel and I headed to Zamora for some shopping.  He knew the perfect parking spot, and from there, we walked to do our business.  We exchanged some dollars for Pesos.  We walked the plaza, the traditional type where maidens and bachelors walked (and still do in some towns) in opposing circles on certain evenings of the week, to surreptitiously check each other out.  We entered one of the gorgeous churches, where I said a birthday prayer for Margarita.  We walked the Mercado, narrow streets lined with all sorts of shops, so much like Morocco.  We ate the best Dulce de Leche, goat tacos, roasted street corn, wild potatoes steamed and served sliced with lime and salt, fresh pomegranates, and fresh chicharrónes.  Manuel bought flowers for Margarita.  We attempted to visit two more churches, including the tallest in Latin America.  They were closed, so we had to settle for the impressive exteriors.  We passed too many businesses to name.  There is a lot of action everywhere.  Back in the car, we drove to a large market, to reconnaissance chips and cakes for party day.

 

Everywhere you drive, the vegetation is lush.  Unlike California, this is the rainy time here, and they tell me that all will be dry in December.  We seem to have sun most of the day, with a little thunderstorm each afternoon, like Florida.  I am surprised at how clean everything is, small town, large city and countryside are all clean.

 

When we arrived back at the house, Sonia had been settling us all in with towels, sheets and more.  Ruben’s friend, Lionel had stopped by with a flat of assorted berries from one of the farms he manages, so add those to the many snacks.  The kids were all napping.   We chatted and relaxed, then withdrew to shower and change for the evening.  Before we left, I gave Margarita the birthday gift I brought for the occasion, a necklace in replica of a rosary, which she prays every day.  In three cars, we returned to Zamora, to a Mediterranean style restaurant, the Black Olive.  Added to our group (all named above, except Estella) were Stephanie, daughter of another brother, who lives in the Carneros area between Napa and Sonoma, and Lionel with his family, Maribel, and children Nayelli, Leonardo and Julie.  We had the whole place to ourselves, as 7:00 is early for local diners.  We were well attended by a very young, but professional staff.  We enjoyed a white wine from the list, and excellent red wines that Ruben brought from Napa, including his own brand.  I enjoyed a local fish, resembling a dover sole, pan-fried and delicious.  Even though Cynthia and I had scouted several party bars on the way, with talk of our continued late-night indulgences with Tequilla, cooler heads prevailed and we headed home, having been up since the morning of the 30th.

 

August 1, 2025 – Party preparations and National Park

Ruben greeted me with a cup of coffee and as we stood in the yard, one of his uncles, Ramon, was on a bench, across the street, with 3 other men.  He came over to chat, and told me how much Ruben helps him.  He explained that the men were all waiting on the daily delivery of tortillas, which was late.  Another uncle, Luis, also came over.  They are both brothers of Ruben’s father, deceased.

 

Then, we were off, with Manuel, to fetch menudo.  We drove to the favorite place in Zamora, and another culinary excursion began.  We parked in front of the favorite menudo place, but they only had it on Saturdays and Sundays.  A little three-piece band was across the street, kitty corner, banging out some tunes, in front of a large mural.  We walked across to another spot for menudo.  While waiting for the lady to fill the order, cutting up pieces of tripe into bowls, ladling the soup to measure, and then transferring to our bucket, we enjoyed potato tacos.  The adjacent stall had a woman squeezing oranges, green of skin but orange of flesh.  Ruben ordered 7 orders to take.  Each order was measured into paper thin plastic bags and tied to go.  Surprisingly, it worked.  Back to the car, and Manuel ordered quesadillas for Tony.  Then, we stopped at Sonia’s favorite torta stand for those.  While waiting for tortas, Manuel went across the street for tortillas and Ruben got a call from his musician friend, who was at the house early to inspect the location for the stage.  We hurried home, but did make a quick stop at the tostada guy, to inquire about fresh chips.  Of course, all along the way are colorful houses, businesses, parks the center of divided streets.  There is one street, especially interesting, because many of the houses had large pink bows and an area with strings of pink flags crossing the street.  It must be for a special party.  Ruben said that when he was a kid, both sides of this street were sewer drainage ditches.  One by one, people built houses over the top, putting the drainage through concrete pipes under.  None had title, but gradually, both sides are wall to wall houses.

 

At the house, Antonio, the musician, was trying on some beautiful custom jackets/outfits, that Ruben had made as gifts, with his logo on the back.  We all sat down to menudo, including another cousin that came in, Martin.  My first menudo was delicious, but we were too full to tackle the tortas.  As we were finishing, Sonia said that the girls were frying the chilis for the mole, so we went out back to see.  The 8 girls were finished and there was a huge washtub sized pot of chilis, with the remnants of the coals nearby.  They were pealing garlic, and there were two other pots of ingredients near the fire.   They were waiting for Salvador to bring more ingredients.

 

Meanwhile, as Ruben was saying goodbye to our singer, Lionel arrived with a bucket of strawberries, just picked.  At Lionel’s suggestion, we are headed out to a local lake that is part of a national park.

 

Parque National Lago de Camecuaro is a beautiful lake, with the most impressive trees rimming the lake.  These are as big around as most redwoods and have an extended root system like Banyon trees.  The lake is rimmed with tables and various vendors.  We enjoyed homemade ice cream (pecan for me) served from deep pots soaking in ice.  You can take boat rides or swim.  We also enjoyed Tequilla spritzers.  There is a wandering mariachi band.  Vendors wander, including one that was selling a spritzy drink, made from slightly fermented agave, which you could have with or without a spicy juice.  We walked all around the lake, and bought coconut haystack confections on the way out.

 

Back to Zamora for more shopping.  At Lupita’s, a discount market much like restaurant supply place, we bought more beer and ingredients for salsa.  Parking near the mercado, Ruben, Manuel and I dashed through the afternoon shower to get tomatillos and then to a place that makes only chips, for 20 big bags.  Back to the veggie stand for more onions, and to the car.  Next, we parked across town, and walked this way and that, before finding the recommended cake bakery.  Ruben bought three large Tres Leches cakes.  Now, the 7 of us balanced all our treasures and headed home.  But not before stopping for some dinner at an outdoor taco restaurant, specializing in Al Pastor.  Layers of meat are pressed into a cylindrical shape, with spices, and cooked on a slow turning spit, much like Gyros or Shwarma.  The meat is then shaved off.  All restaurants have condiments of tomato, onion, lime and salsa.  Here, there is also a fresh salsa of fresh pineapple, with jalapeno.  I also enjoyed a fresh beverage made from dried hibiscus.

 

Back at the house, we unloaded and joined the next action, raising the tarps for tomorrow’s party.  One of the men, Santiago, reminded me that he had worked for me back in the M&L Vineyard Management days.  Eight or so men masterfully covered half the municipal basketball court with 2 gigantic tarps.  Once they had it all worked out, they pulled it all down again, as the wind and rain were threatening the night. But now, it would be easy to put back up tomorrow.  While the men were working on tarps, a large group of women and children looked on.  Over the town loudspeaker, an invitation was going out for all the town to join for Margarita’s birthday party tomorrow.  Later, all retired to the benches outside Senaida’s store, just off the court.  This is clearly the gathering spot of the neighborhood.  Big day tomorrow, so by 9:30ish we were all turning in.

 

August 2, 2025 – The Party

A little after 6:30, our dog was barking, and so I went to the back fence between Ruben’s house and the compound central yard, where men were setting up to cook the meat.  They were building fires between piles of bricks, and had pots the size of small bathtubs.  When I saw Senaida and Salvador, I asked if I could help.  I joined the men in moving a pile of tables and chairs to the court.  Ruben appeared with a cup of coffee and headed off to start cooking salsa.  After the tables and chairs were moved, and while the men re-erected the tarps, I watched Ruben cooking salsas, green and red, for the tables.  I watched the meat cooks, Jorge and Efrain, as they assembled the Birria.  At the bottom of the pot, large pieces of roof tile, then chunks of beef and various red ingredients, covered by plastic and more roof tiles.  Later, 2 pots of carnitas, chunks of pork, cooked in lard with Coke and oranges.  Meanwhile, another fire was started and the huge pot of mole, a red sauce, with a hint of chocolate, was warmed.  Yesterday, after cooking all the peppers, the ladies took them to a stone mill to be ground smooth and so is the sauce.

 

Meanwhile, after the tarps were up, we set up the tables and chairs, 20 tables of 10.  Soon, the men arrived to begin erecting the giant stage for tonight’s show.  Ladies were making salsa fresca in one courtyard.  Ruben finished the salsas and cooked tripe, chorizo and carne asada for our breakfast.  I did a bit of stirring while he chopped and blended.  The ice arrived.  The ladies started cooking the rice, again over open flames.  Ruben started cooking the shrimp soup to feed the men assembling the stage.  Two nieces from Calistoga, Eli and Lupita, started decorating the tables, including a special place for Margarita, with a backdrop and arch of pink balloons.  All the tables have white tablecloths and a sash of pretty crinkled pink silk.  At the last minute, centerpieces of two types are added, either fresh flowers, or bouquets of candy, both types in red-clay ceramic.

 

While all this is going on, I am roaming back and forth, just loving every part.  I went with Salvador and Senaida, to the neighboring town of La Ladera, to pick up three more cakes, decorated in pink.  Along the way, I saw a guava orchard and a man plowing his field behind 2 horses.  Salvador said that about 10% of farmers still use horses.  We made it back without losing a single cake.

 

The stage roof and lighting are elevated, the stage platform is going up. I tasted pig stomach and skin, tasty but I prefer the skin very crispy and this was a different style.  The ladies, the same who cooked the rice, who will be serving, have returned, dressed so beautifully, their daughters like little princesses.  It is 2:15, the party starts at 3, so I best get into the shower!

 

The party was an amazing success.  Even the weather was perfect.  At 3:00, many people had already arrived.  Ruben’s mother, Margarita, was dressed in a beautiful white dress.  Her table, in front of a lovely backdrop, was covered with the 6 cakes, and gifts, as people came to greet her.  Most people were really dressed up.  The stage was still under construction until around 7, but the Mariachi played throughout on the other side.  The headliner, Tonio Ramirez, was on hand early, incognito in a Giants shirt and hat.  Turns out he is a big fan and we chatted about that.  Lots of people, including me, took pictures with him until he slipped out.

 

The bar was very busy, making the popular drink, with Tequilla, squirt, a splash of juice and sparkling water, rimmed with mango-chili spice, fresh orange slice, fresh grapefruit slice and a straw coated with the mango-chili.  Of course, beer, soda and straight tequila were on hand as well.  Tables were set for 200, but there were more people that that as people wandered in.  Estimates as high as 500 for those who joined in as the party progressed.  Chips and the homemade salsas were on the tables, while the 8 ladies brought trays of plates of food for hours.  The mariachi moved around to the stage side as they worked their way to Margarita and sang special songs for her.  Tonio Ramirez also joined the mariachi, to sing special songs to Margarita, while Ruben stood beside her.  The entire group did not sing happy birthday, though Cynthia told me it was common to do so.  I did not see any candle lighting or blowing, but did catch Margarita cutting the first slice of cake.  Then, the ladies, who were still serving food to late comers, switched gears to serve cake.

 

The stage now complete, the second band, Los de las Fresas, a 6 piece with drums, guitar, accordion and more, got the crowd on their feet.  First, a circle of young girls started in the center, and one old cowboy on the edges.  Before long, they were taking out tables in the center and the dance crowd grew.  At one point, the main act took over, Tonio Ramirez, La Voz Chicano, had too many musicians to count, with four trumpet players up front, who did a “Pips” shuffle.   All wore white jackets and black pants, except our star, who was wearing one of the embroidered jackets from the Rubios.  The stage was multi-tiered and had a huge backdrop screen and large ones on the sides as well.

 

The dancers added to the entertainment, all ages were out there, and I particularly loved following a young man of about 15, with his cowboy hat worn at a jaunty angle, who was not at all shy about asking the girls to dance.  And, of course, our old cowboy was about, but he was a lone rooster.  It was just the perfect party, and I suspect one the town will be talking about for many years to come.

 

August 3, 2025 – Winery, vineyard and San Miguel de Allendre

I awoke to rain, but it did not last long.  Today, our family, and those of Lionel and Santiago, 14 of us in total, went to San Miguel de Allende, just under 4 hours each way, in the state of Guanajuato.  Lots of agriculture, sprinkled with towns along the way.  Corn was still the predominant crop, and we saw less agave, some sorghum, and though I did not recognize any plants, there were roadside stands selling fresh figs and jicama.  Our first stop was the San Miguel Winery.  Part of our educational element of the trip.  This is the largest winery in the area, producing 15,000 cases annually.  They claim that all the plants were imported from France as dormant benchgrafts.  Somebody spread mountains of cash to build this place, which was quite beautiful.  The vineyards were perfectly manicured, though seem to be heavily scorched with red blotch, or something similar.  The practices all seemed very much like ours in the Napa Valley.  The wines were good.  All of the 4 we tried were very clean and balanced.  They were pouring 2019s, but I did not determine if that was by design.  The guide was thorough and friendly.  The place was busy.  They are owned by an Italian company, Villa Petriolo of Tuscany.

 

We then continued into the city.  Sonia said that if she were to live in Mexico, this is where she would want to be.  Her and many others.  According to Travel & Leisure, voted the number one city in the world, again.  It took a while to find parking but once we did, we were well placed to walk to the main plaza.  All the streets are cobblestone, and fairly narrow, one way.  The city is very cosmopolitan, a gentrified version of Mexico, due to many international residents, and noted for fine dining.  We found a really charming courtyard restaurant, Meson de San Jose.  It was a buffet, very unusual in Mexico, I think.  About 20 tall clay pots, suspended over burners, held many popular Mexican dishes, and I especially loved the crispy potato tacos and fresh fruits, but all the dishes were excellent.

 

After, we walked past several churches and small parks to get to the big church of San Miguel.  The colonial (aka missionaries and conquistadors) city was founded in 1564, with smaller churches eventually growing into the current version in 1794.  Miss Guanajuato was on the steps, beautifully crowned and gowned, letting all who wanted a turn to take a photo with her, for a few minutes in any event.  As with most older Catholic churches, this one was beautiful.  It was also very busy, as a tourist destination (many donation boxes throughout) and some services were ongoing.  It had many naves and the variety of icons and artwork, accumulated over the centuries, could have occupied a day or more.

 

Outside was the plaza, where in olden days the young people of the town would pass each other in a prelude to courtship.  Ruben said that it was still the practice when he was a young man.  He said that the boys would purchase eggs, that had been hollowed out and filled with tiny bits of colored paper, to break over the girls’ heads, making a mess of their hair.  He said that if he fancied a girl, he would hand her a flower.  If she accepted, she would then walk on his arm around the plaza.  I was especially interested as the development and culture of these towns are featured in the James Mitchener book that I am reading, Texas, as all the early development of Texas came up from these Spanish colonies of Mexico.  Many doorways to businesses, were garlanded with flowers, though most of the fresh ones had dried up, so maybe they freshen them at Christmas or another big holiday.  There were tons of fresh flowers on one of the religious shrines that we passed.  As our parking lot closed at 6:00 it was time to head home, but a city worth more time.

 

Just short of home, we stopped at the gas station to use the bathroom.  At first, we were prevented from doing so, because one military man was holding it for about 20 uniformed military, the same ones we had passed with the mounted machine gun.  The all came into the gas station to buy snacks, carrying what seemed to be shotguns, but I did not get close enough to verify.  Then, we shopped, did our business and got the call from the other car to gather at a street taco stand for a late bite, which we did.  Then to home and bed.

 

August 4, 2025 – Berry tour, Zamora, Martinez family

Another perfect day in Mexico.  Nothing was planned for the morning, so I walked around the town a bit.  The church gate was open, but not the church itself.  I continued around to find the rodeo arena, only a half block from Ruben’s.  I had a great view of the surrounding area from the top of the cement seating.  I made a circle, seeing two small stores.  As soon as I returned, we were off to visit Lionel Ramirez at his berry operation.  I learned so much about berry management, some of which will be useful in the vineyard.  The blueberries are grown it pots, due to their limited soil ph affinity, and the floor of the growing area is covered with thick fabric.  There are hoops that hold the black shade netting, with white plastic on standby if additional warmth is needed.  The raspberries and blackberries are all planted direct to the soil, with plastic sheeting to cover.  We spoke of the various pest problems and solutions.  The berry vines are regularly cut back, encouraging new growth, but never dug up for complete re-do.  We did not have time to visit the strawberry section, as the family was ready to eat.

 

In Zamora, we started with “tacos suave”, tiny tacos, crispy with various fillings, covered with sauce, cabbage, cheese and more, which makes them soft.  Ruben and I had coffee at his favorite place, Café San Pedro, most had ice cream.  I got more dulce de leche.  We bought various items to take to his friends’ house later.  He made shrimp ceviche, with fresh tomato, onion, cilantro, chilis and limes.  Fresh tostadas, beer, sodas, ice.  We ate tamales and there was another guy selling the fermented agave spritzer.  Ruben bought large volumes of coconut candy and cheese to take home.  We visited a souvenir shop, where Cynthia loaded up for friends at home.  Then, back to Carlos’ dulceria, where I bought a full-sized Dulce de Leche, to take to dinner.  Ruben bought new boots, and got a traditional shave at the barber.  At Lupita’s satellite store, I bought a special Tequilla to take to dinner, along with the Dulce de Leche and a bottle of Tierra Roja.

 

Back at the house, we unloaded and Ruben made the ceviche, over at this mom’s house.  He also went with me to deliver gifts I had brought, to various family.  Eventually, it was time to head to the Ramirez home, which was quite lovely and large.  They invited us to a big fish-fry.  Husband and wife run the berry operation together.  Mirabel, very fashionable and polished in all the previous settings, is actually a real farm girl and it was great to see her in that element.  They took us on a short walk to see their large warehouse and new feed lot pens.  Santiago and Manuel did all the cooking, and we enjoyed fried fish, French fried potatoes and onions, rice both white and red, fresh fruit, corn on the cob, fried chicken and the things we brought.  It was a nice evening.  All the kids swam in the pool (the only one in the area).  As we were preparing to call it a night a thunderstorm started and we had a show for the ride home.

 

August 5, 2025 – Our last day

I was dressed, but with no makeup, when I heard the car start.  When I stuck my head out, Ruben motioned to get in, and we drove to his favorite coffee place in Zamora.  We also bought tamales.  And, we walked over to the big church, tallest in Mexico, Diocesan Sanctuary of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which was open today.  It was quite beautiful, and yet very different.  The stone blocks, combined with aggregate walls, and beautiful wood work were all stunning.  The designs in the stained glass and statuary were all very expensive and yet modern somehow.  There was a huge banner commemorating the new Pope.  I later learned from the internet, that the cornerstone was laid in 1898 and construction continued to 1914, when work was suspended due to the Mexican Revolution and later the Cristero War.  One side of the church still bears the bullet holes from where many died by firing squad for their faith.  Work resumed in 1990 and was completed in 2009.  It looks so fresh, because it is.

 

Back at the house, all were up.  Margarita was on hand.  We visited with her and others.  I received a gift of embroidery from Margarita and a painted earthenware from Senaida. We packed.  We hung out, until Salvador returned from where he was working.  Then we stuffed his huge car and made the 2 plus hour drive to Guadalajara.  The scenery was as great returning as coming.  A few miles from the airport, we stopped at a very cool restaurant, Los 3 Potrillos Restaurante.  This large, open-aired (as are most places) restaurant had a very extensive menu.  I ordered a stewed goat dish, which was delicious.  The décor was colorful, tastefully done, and featured pictures, framed gold/platinum albums and more, of the founder, a famous Mariachi singer, Vicente Feraneli.  We were treated to a full Mariachi band during lunch.

 

Now, we are all checked in, and will be boarding soon.  Home just after midnight.

 

Of course, this brief account cannot begin to convey all the wonderful experiences.  It was just the perfect trip.